This past weekend, my family and I embarked on the fourth anniversary of one of our favorite autumn traditions. Each year, once elk hunting season comes to a close, we select one Saturday between mid-October and mid-November to enjoy some of the most scenic fall foliage the Gifford Pinchot has to offer.
Our travels start on highway 503 at the southeast corner of Cowlitz County in Cougar. Our route follows the shores of Swift Reservoir, passes beneath the evergreens of Curly Creek Road, and eventually concludes via the Wind River Highway on the outskirts of the Columbia River Gorge.
For our family every year, this is an opportunity to appreciate the remarkable landscape we have practically in our backyard. Go too early, and the maples and cotton woods that line the Wind River highway will still be in their final stages of green. Wait too long into fall, and the cycle of yellows and oranges will have turned to brown and already cover the sides of the road.
Leaving Cougar, the route will carry you east through the tunnels of alders that overlook the cliffs of the Swift Reservoir. We discovered this year that recent logging on these cliff sides blessed us with remarkable views of the reservoir as you travel Forest Service Road 90. As you head further east, the subtle transition in foliage becomes increasingly apparent—alders gradually give way to maples, painted in ever-more vibrant shades of yellow and orange.
You will then enjoy your last glimpse of the Lewis River as you cross the bridge at Eagle Cliff. This year, the banks of the river were shining in a vibrant yellow foliage. Give a quick wave to the rural Northwoods community before turning onto Curly Creek Road. Here, the character of the drive becomes part of the experience. The pavement bends through the mountains, trees crowd the roadside, and each turn offers another glimpse of the forest’s autumn transformation. The journey is not about speed, especially for those of us with car-sick prone children. Our family looks with anticipation in this stage of the drive, not yet knowing where within the fall cycle our drive will be this year.
One of the memorable stops along the way will be McClellan Viewpoint, a familiar destination for those seeking a breathtaking view of Mount St. Helens and the surrounding mountain country. The viewpoint offers a reminder of just how expansive this landscape is, even when the journey itself takes place along narrow, winding roads beneath a canopy of trees. This stop is usually dictated by the amount of cloud cover in the forecast, unfortunately this year the mountain could not be seen.
From there, the route continues through the forest as you turn onto the Wind River Highway. The beauty of this country lies partly in that contrast: the enduring green of the conifers alongside deciduous trees preparing for winter, with color and texture changing from one stretch of road to the next. A once busy highway during the summer season is now lined with closed campgrounds and the occasional deer hunter. While our regional fall foliage might not match the deep crimson maples found on the East Coast, the brilliant contrast between the yellow cottonwood trees and the vibrant red and orange vine maples along Paradise Creek is a sight that will make anyone proud to call Washington home.
As you exit the Gifford Pinchot, you will be greeted by the towering backdrop of the high hills of the Columbia River Gorge. Our family concludes our drive at the original location for Backwoods Brewing in Carson. After a day spent appreciating the natural beauty of the region, ending in a local gathering place always feels like the right conclusion. The mountains, forests, reservoirs and winding roads are part of what makes this corner of Washington special, but so are the small communities and local businesses that give these places their character.
Autumn is a fleeting season. The colors change, the leaves fall, and the landscape soon takes on the whisper of winter. That is part of what makes these days worth documenting. They capture a particular moment in a place that continues to change with the seasons.
For anyone looking for a way to appreciate fall in our region, this route deserves consideration. Travel with care, allow extra time for the winding forest roads, and take advantage of the opportunities to stop and enjoy the view.
Experiencing autumn does not necessarily require an elaborate vacation or a distant destination. Sometimes, all it takes is a willingness to take the scenic route, leave yourself time to stop, and pay attention.
